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Carol Hartley, Lead locksmith··7 min read·
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Are Cheap Padlocks Any Good | When a £20 Lock Is Fine

CEN grades explained, closed-shackle vs open, and the honest truth about which padlocks are worth buying for sheds, gates and storage in Sunderland.

Walk into any hardware shop on the retail park off Wessington Way and you'll find a wall of padlocks. Brass ones, combination ones, ones with laminated steel bodies and cheerful packaging claiming they're 'heavy duty'. Most are under £20. A few are under £10. And every week somebody in Pennywell or Ryhope or down in Hendon buys one, clips it onto something they care about, and sleeps easier for it.

They probably shouldn't.

But, and this is what the internet mostly gets wrong, that doesn't mean cheap padlocks are always useless. The real answer is messier and more interesting.

The myth: a padlock is a padlock

The common belief goes something like this: a padlock is a padlock. It's made of metal, it has a shackle, it needs a key. Buy the cheapest one that fits and you're protected.

You see this logic everywhere, written confidently in DIY forums and repeated at garden centre tills. The problem is it treats a £9 brass padlock and a £90 closed-shackle security padlock as the same object in different packaging. They are not remotely the same object.

What the CEN grades actually test

Europe has a standardised grading system for padlocks: EN 12320. It runs from Grade 1 (the lowest) to Grade 6. These aren't marketing stars awarded by the manufacturer. They're independently tested performance levels covering six specific attack types.

CEN GradeWhat it resistsTypical price range
1Almost nothing. A nominal barrier.Under £10
2Basic physical attack, minimal tool resistance£10 to £25
3Moderate resistance, some pick and drill resistance£25 to £60
4Significant force and tool attack resistance£60 to £120
5High security, extended attack resistance£100 to £200+
6Specialist applications, very high resistance£200+

Sold Secure Diamond, the rating that insurers and serious locksmiths actually care about, maps broadly to Grade 4 and above. Sold Secure Gold sits around Grade 3. Most padlocks sold in DIY sheds are Grade 1 or 2. Some don't even achieve Grade 1 in independent testing despite claiming to.

A Grade 1 padlock will stop a gate swinging open in the wind. It will not stop a determined person with a pair of bolt croppers from a builders' merchant.

Open shackle versus closed shackle

This distinction matters more than almost anything else, and it's one most buyers don't even think about.

An open-shackle padlock has a visible U-shaped loop standing proud of the body. It looks like what you picture when someone says 'padlock'. The shackle is exposed, which means bolt croppers can get a good purchase on it. A standard pair of 24-inch bolt croppers, the kind that cost £30 at any trade counter, will snap a 9mm hardened steel open-shackle padlock in under five seconds. I've watched it happen on a training course. It's genuinely surprising how easy it is.

A closed-shackle design shrouds the shackle in the body of the lock, leaving almost no gap for a cropper jaw. Brands like Abus, Abloy, and in the mid-range Squire and Stanley FatMax produce closed-shackle models worth considering. For serious applications, something like an Abloy Protec2 PL362 or an Abus Granit Plus 37/80 with a closed shackle is a different category of product entirely.

If you're padlocking anything you'd be upset to lose, the shackle design is your first filter, before price, before brand.

Where a cheap padlock is genuinely fine

Here's the contrarian bit, and I mean it sincerely. There are places where a £15 padlock is entirely appropriate.

  • A field gate at the bottom of a garden in Silksworth where the main function is keeping it closed in wind, not deterring theft
  • A locker at a gym or changing room where you're present and any tampering would be immediately noticed
  • A garden shed containing only a broken lawnmower, three empty paint tins, and a camping chair with a snapped leg
  • A temporary seal on something being moved or stored briefly
  • Anywhere the consequence of loss is negligible and you're not relying on it as a security measure

The honest truth is that security is proportional to what you're protecting. Nobody is running a targeted attack on your wheelbarrow.

Where a cheap padlock is false economy

Now the shed in Fulwell with £800 of Dewalt tools in it. The outbuilding in Boldon that doubles as a home office. The storage unit near Washington where you've put your late parent's furniture. The gate that's the only barrier between the public footpath and your rear garden in Roker.

These are the places where a cheap padlock doesn't just fail to help, it actively misleads you into thinking you're protected when you're not. And that gap between perceived security and actual security is where break-ins happen.

A few specifics worth knowing:

  • Combination padlocks under £30 are almost universally Grade 1 or below. Many can be decoded by feel in under two minutes. Some can be shimmed open with an aluminium strip cut from a drinks can. I'm not exaggerating for effect.
  • 'Hardened steel' on a budget padlock usually refers to a hardened shackle on a soft body. The body can be attacked instead, and often is.
  • Brass padlocks look solid but brass is a soft alloy. They're suitable for internal use, luggage, or deterring casual interference. They're not suitable for anything outside with a motivated attacker.

For a shed or outbuilding you care about in the SR1 to SR6 area, you're looking at a minimum of a closed-shackle padlock at Sold Secure Gold (around £40 to £60), used with a proper closed hasp and staple through-bolted to the door, not just screwed. The padlock quality is only half the equation. A Grade 5 padlock on a hasp held in by four wood screws is still easy to defeat.

What you should actually do

Start with the question: what am I protecting, and from what? If the answer is 'not much, from nobody in particular', a £20 padlock is fine and spending more is waste. If the answer involves tools, vehicles, property access, or anything an insurer would want to know about, don't let the price of a padlock be the reason a claim gets complicated.

For a working guide: Sold Secure Gold minimum for sheds and outbuildings with contents worth more than a few hundred pounds. Sold Secure Diamond (or CEN Grade 4+) for garages, storage units, and anywhere with high-value contents or where the padlock is your primary barrier. Closed shackle wherever bolt croppers are a realistic threat. Always check the hasp is as strong as the lock.

If you're not sure what you've got, the CEN grade is usually stamped inside the shackle or printed on the packaging. If it isn't there, assume Grade 1.

Locks Local covers Sunderland and the surrounding SR postcodes. If you want a second opinion on what you've got on a shed, gate or outbuilding, we'll tell you honestly whether it's adequate or whether you're wasting your money on something that won't hold. Average arrival under 30 minutes across most of the area, and pricing is given on the call before we come out.

Carol Hartley, Lead locksmith

Carol has been on the tools in and around Sunderland for over two decades, and has fitted, drilled, picked and sworn at most locks ever sold in the SR postcodes. Strong opinions about nearly all of them.

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Questions people actually ask

Most household insurers require outbuildings to be secured with a padlock and hasp to at least BS EN 12320 Grade 3, and increasingly they specify Sold Secure Gold or above, which maps to Grade 3 to 4. Some policies are vaguer and just say 'a suitable lock', which sounds flexible until you make a claim and they argue it wasn't suitable. Check your policy wording specifically. If it says Sold Secure Gold, a Squire SS50CS or Abus 83CS/80 (both closed-shackle, around £45 to £65) will meet that bar. If it says Sold Secure Diamond, you're looking at products like the Abus Granit Plus 37/80 or Abloy PL362, typically £90 to £150.

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